Kauai, 03/08/08


Session No.: Pre-trip Kauai
Location: Island of Kauai, Hawaii, 3/8/08 to 3/14/08.
Swell: Coming down from a NW, building NW Sunday and Monday, holding Tuesday, coming down a bit Wednesday and Thursday. Small SSW expected Tuesday to Thursday.
Conditions: Expected good weather, 74 to 82 degrees and sunny, increasing trade winds, possibility of rain mid-week.
Wave Count: Right now, 0.
Trip: Approximately 1,900 miles each way.
Crowd: Local Hawaiians.
Session Length:6 days and 6 nights
Note: Third Hawaiian Island for me.
Fuel/Refuel:Will advise; local cuisine.
Equipment:The Rocket, 7-2, and DP, 8-6 gun.

(I'm no expert, but I'll give this a try...)

Kauai is the fourth largest Island of the eight island Hawaiian chain. Home to about 58,000 permanent residents, the island encompasses 550 square miles, where over 1 million tourists and surfers visit annually. The island is named "The Garden Isle" for its lush greenery. If I remember correctly, the island is approximately 5.1 million years old and is half way - 1,900 miles - equidistant between Los Angeles and Tokyo. It is the northernmost island in the chain and is open to virtually any direction of swell.

The airport designation is LIH, for Lihue (I think pronounced LIE-hoo-ee), the county seat of Kauai County, Hawaii. I will be staying on the eastern shore in the town of Kapaa (say: Kah-Pah-ah), a popular and rather affordable part of the island, near Wailua Falls and the Wailua River. To the south side is Poipu (I think: Poie-Poo), and to the north is ritzy and expensive Princeville and quaint and laid back Hanalei (han-a-lay). Hanalei is a well known area for surfing during the winter months, with about six well-known waves in the area to choose from that are mostly reefs, although there are some beach breaks as well.

The south shore features a couple of well known waves. I've been told that If I like taking off in front of coral heads sticking out of the water (not really), then go to a place on the south shore.

The east side of the island features a wide variety of breaks, but are hit in the afternoon hours by local prevailing easterly winds and tend to get blown out.

The west side - seemingly like every west side of every island - is quite localized with spots to avoid, I've been told, rather than to seek out.

There is one spot on the SW side of the island that I have taken a great interest in, and we'll see if I can catch a few there. Hanalei will be my starting point, I think.

One might notice that I have chosen NOT to name any breaks, with the exception of Hanalei. Over the short period of time I have planned my trip this week, people have said that this would be the best approach. While it is a major change in style for me, I think it would be best to leave it this way. Furthermore, many of the waves on the island break very far off shore, making photography quite difficult. Apparently, photographing the waves is not generally well-received. So I might end up with a lot more landscape and portrait shots than surfing photos. Although I would like, if possible, to add a photo of me riding a wave on the island. I'm playing that by ear.

I chose to come visit and surf in Kauai because I have been to both Oahu and Maui and wanted another outer island experience. Several of my closest and most talented, dedicated friends who are surfers and who know me well, told me after I came back from Oahu, that I would most definitely enjoy going to Kauai instead of back to the North Shore again. So if you are wondering, "Why did he go there?" then this is your answer. I received a few referrals. Over the years, I have also been told that there are a lot of people from San Diego who have moved to Kauai.

My surfing, approach to surfing, respect of the land and the locals and experiences on Oahu and Maui were very positive, and I was very well-received by all the local and visiting surfers from Ala Moana to Honolua, who shared a lot of aloha, information and waves with me once they realized I wasn't a threat or some kook. I'm a solo traveler, which can work in my favor. Just one guy. I'm all about earning respect for myself and giving it to the locals.

I would like to enjoy the thrill of discovering more of Hawaii. I'm not a car load of guys who shows up, packs a place out, drops in, leaves trash behind, eats at McDonalds every day and bails and brags about it. When visiting, I like to support and patronize local or family owned businesses, restaurants, surf shops and other establishments that are local/country and not corporate. I'd rather buy fruit from a road side stand rather than from some place with florescent lights. This is only one way of giving back to something that gives me the opportunity to experience the ultimate in surfing in Hawaii. Being part of and trying to blend in to the culture is what I would like to accomplish, not stand out from it. As a single, I think I can blend in well. I did last time, and I would like to again.

"There is no known meaning behind the name of Kauai. Native Hawaiian tradition indicates the name's origin in the legend of Hawaiiloa — the Polynesian navigator attributed with discovery of the Hawaiian Islands. The story relates how he named the island of Kauai after a favorite son; therefore a possible translation of Kauai is "place around the neck", meaning how a father would carry a favorite child."

- Cliff


HOME AGAIN