Ah, the seventh day in a row surfing. Fog and overcast and wind have all subsided, as has the river that runs through it, thank god. Today I was very, very tired from surfing six days in a row, but I wanted to surf today to make it seven in a row, then take tomorrow off as the swell drops off and use it as a day of rest and a day (evening) of running errands and taking care of stuff so I can put together another seven days in a row, hopefully. All reports hint at Friday/tomorrow being smaller, possibly the new “huge” swell that hit Hawaii on Wednesday might be filling in a bit late in the afternoon. I ‘m taking the day off tomorrow because I’m still really sore, really tired. And if one takes a day off and then gets back into it, it’s like being superman or something, because I plan on surfing my brains out on Saturday and Sunday, as conditions are supposed to be epic. I brought the Gobstopper with me today to play around on. It’s a good board, but at the Cliffs it’s kind of rocky-rolly when I get hit by whitewater and isn’t such a stable board for late takeoffs (my speciality) or around the lip coming down and stuff. The surf seemed to turn from groundswell to complete windswell, but it had power behind it. It was pretty difficult to catch and set up for. Had a couple that were nothing but a drop and a kickout. But still, what helped was going surfing when I was so sore. As I made my way home and made a killer home made Mexican fiesta carne asada taco dinner, and as the evening wore on after a hot shower, the soreness from battling the river for two days seemed to evaporate. Rest tomorrow. Dinner, laundry, bills, clean the house, then charge the weekend and days beyond...
- Cliff