The weather goes from epic to total post-Santa Ana wind and a 30 degree temperature drop from 80s inland to 50s coastal. It is drab and overcast everywhere. In the afternoon, a nasty onshore wind starts blowing, but I still have brought the board and equipment with me to surf after work, and I’m somewhat determined to do so because there is still swell in the water, regardless. I know that it is not going to stay light out as long as usual, as the fog/overcast/clouds are totally obscuring all the sunshine we’ve had for the past week, and will limit the available light at sunset. I pull up and find the worst conditions of the month, really, sloppy, choppy, cold, windy and am seriously thinking of heading back to the truck to leave when a friend sees me pondering and basically going to get in my truck. He drives by and yells, “Go out!” and speeds away. So I suit up, with few cars around, one familiar one right next to me, and charge down the stairs. I heard on the radio that there was an accident on the freeway that I use to get home, and the motivational speaker in the passing vehicle and this fact propel me into a lineup that consists of me and two other lunatics who have decided that they just have to surf. This is what you call “uncrowded.” Surprisingly despite the chop and wind and cold, and a current to battle that was even worse than yesterday (I don’t think I ever really sat up on the board for 45 minutes, just paddled and caught a few waves - we are getting waves nonetheless, and the crowd factor can’t be beat. I guess any day at the home break with three guys out is cause for somewhat of a celebration. The rip becomes so powerful that standing up and riding feels like one is riding a standing wave. That even though I’ve seemingly taken a right to get OUT of the rip, after I kick out, it’s like I’ve gone no where The shower is cold, changing into street clothes from the wetsuit is even colder, and later in the evening my core is cold and I can’t seem to warm up. But that’s okay. I surfed today.
- Cliff